Vietnam is 1,650 kilometres long and has three distinct climates. There is no single best month — there is only a best month for the part you are going to.
The three climates
| Region | Good | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| North (Hanoi, Sapa, Ha Long) | Mar–May, Sep–Nov | Dec–Feb cold and misty |
| Centre (Hue, Hoi An, Da Nang) | Feb–Aug | Oct–Nov heavy rain, flooding |
| South (HCMC, Mekong) | Dec–Apr | May–Oct wetter, though brief |
The windows when most of the country works at once: February to April and August to October, with the caveat that central Vietnam floods in late autumn — Hoi An's old town regularly takes water.
Direction and transport
North to south (Hanoi → Ho Chi Minh City) is the more common direction, and either works. What matters is not backtracking.
Internal flights are cheap and are the only fast way to cover the length — Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City is two hours by air against 35 by train.
Sleeper trains are worth it on specific stretches. The Hue to Da Nang coastal section over the Hai Van Pass is one of the best rail journeys in Asia. Soft sleeper cabins are comfortable.
Buses are cheap and the sleeper buses are an acquired taste.
The core route
Hanoi (3) — old quarter, street food, and the launch point for the north.
Ha Long / Lan Ha Bay (2) — overnight cruise rather than a day trip, because the bay empties in the evening and that is when it is worth being there. Lan Ha and Bai Tu Long are adjacent, part of the same karst landscape, and carry a fraction of the boats.
Sapa or Ha Giang (3) — terraced mountains. Ha Giang's motorbike loop is the more rewarding and the more demanding.
Hue (2) — imperial citadel, tombs along the river.
Hoi An (3) — lantern-lit old town, tailors, and the beach nearby. Touristed and still lovely.
Ho Chi Minh City (2) plus the Mekong Delta — the delta is better with an overnight in Can Tho for the floating market at dawn, not the day-trip version.
Practical
Visa. Vietnam's e-visa and exemption rules have changed repeatedly. Check the current requirement for your nationality close to travel rather than relying on older information.
Crossing the road in Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City: walk slowly and steadily and do not stop. Traffic flows around you. Hesitating is what causes accidents.
Motorbike rental requires the correct licence for insurance to be valid, and most travel policies exclude riding without one.
Coffee is a serious matter — cà phê sữa đá with condensed milk, and egg coffee in Hanoi.
Tet, the lunar new year in late January or February, closes much of the country for a week and transport books out entirely.